In this video, I’m going to show you how to fold an origami Hydrangea Ribbon Box. It’s a design by Dáša Ševerová which features Shuzo Fujimoto’s beautiful hydrangea. Dáša also has a flickr stream with more of her fantastic work, including photo diagrams for this model. In this video, I’m going to use two squares, each with a side length of 35 cm or 13 and three quarters of an inch. One sheet for the box, and one for the lid. The finished box with lid then has a height of about 5.5 cm or 2 and 1/8 of an inch and a side length of about 6.5 cm or 2 and 5/8 of an inch. Now here I’m using kraft paper which, in Germany, is commonly sold as wrapping paper. It’s thin and crisp and perfect for this model. Now usually for boxes, you’d use slightly heavier paper, but because of the color change for the ribbon, the layers double up, so it’s actually better to use thin paper to get a nice finish of the hydrangea, and the box is still going to be really sturdy. We’ll first fold the box, and after that, the lid. For a red ribbon, we’re going to start with the red side up. We’re first going to fold edge to edge in both directions. Then we’re going to pinch first a quarter and then an eighth on each side simply because we’re using quite large sheets here, (if we want slightly larger boxes, at least) and it’s easier to get nice precision if you pinch on both sides, but you really just need to mark right on the edge. And repeat that on all four sides. Now we’re going to take the edge and bring it to the pinch marks we made, aligning on each side to get a nice, straight crease. And crease throughout, making a strong crease. And repeat on the other three sides. Then we’re going to flip the paper over, and we’re going to take the central crease, make it into a mountain fold, and align it with that folded edge. Just align carefully so you get a nice, straight crease over the whole length of the paper, and once you’ve got that halfway into place, I actually like to unfold this, so that I can really see where I’m creasing. And same on the other three sides. Once you’ve completed that, we need to add some diagonal creases. They’re not going to go through the whole length of the paper, but just some of those small squares here. So we’re first going to take one tip, and you can see this outside crease here. We’re going to align this outside crease here with that outside crease right there, and the same on the other side. So this is the outside crease, that’s the outside crease, and same on the other side. And align them, and then you’re going to make a crease through the center, and go out just one section to each side. So one to the left and one to the right. No more than that. And then we’re going to align that outside crease with the central one. So that’s 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, and we’re going to go with that third one on both sides, aligning, and, again, we’re going to go through a tip here, and this time we’re going to go two to the right and two to the left. And then, you’ve got these creases right here. You’ve got a shorter one and then a longer one. And repeat on the other three corners. Now we’re going to collapse the hydrangea in the center, and just for that you can see there’s this small square consisting of four even smaller squares. I’m just going to pinch those sides from this side so that from the color side, they’re valley folds. It’s going to make the collapse just a little bit easier. And easier is always better. And then flip it over. And you should already know how to fold the hydrangea by Shuzo Fujimoto. But if you don’t yet, simply check my video that details this. So I’m just going to go through the collapse a bit more quickly here. And what you need to remember is that you’ve got valley folds right here, and then you have mountain folds right along here and also on that small triangle, and you do that on all four sides. And this is also going to be a mountain fold, and this corner right here, importantly, goes down rather than up. And if you just look into that, then it will work perfectly. It’s going to be a bit harder to collapse this rather than the normal hydrangea, simply because you have a lot more paper surrounding it. But here you can see that pattern that I was just talking about. And then you just squeeze it together, and then your hydrangea base is collapsed. And you’ll need the same procedure for the lid. But it’s also applied here, which makes it really fit together with the lid. Now for the color change, we’re going to take each of these corners and fold them in so that the creases start right in these creases right here, connecting those or bringing that point to the center. But I actually prefer to work with those lines back there so that you get a nice and neat finish. It’s a bit easier to get nice precision by lining it up like that rather than bringing the point to the center. And that’s going to be hidden in any case, so if you have slight imprecision there, it doesn’t matter. And then we’re going to flip it over. And now we’re going to shape the box. And for that, we’re first going to bring one of these edges to the center. And because there’s many layers here, you will want to sort of soften the paper here so that the creases fall into the right place rather than the paper crinkling. So you can see it’s a nice finish here. And do that with all four sides. I first like to do the opposite corners, and after that, I actually don’t really go to the center, but rather, I get neat points right here adding those creases. Because we’re basically doing a masu box here, and for that you want a square. So connecting the corners here gives you nice points which are important. And the last one. Always just softening the paper a little so that you get a nice finish. And strong creases. Then we’re going to take these corners here and fold them over like that. And then we’re going to take that paper and hide it right there. And repeat on the other three corners. And once you’ve done that, you can tuck these points into these small pockets of the reverse of the hydrangea base. So just tuck them inside. It’s going to ensure that it doesn’t unfold too much while we’re adding the next creases. Like this. So next, we have to shape the box out of this square. And we’re going to align this folded edge with that end of the ribbon plus a little extra. So you go up maybe two or three millimeters or a bit less than one eighth of an inch, and that’s just so that when you have the box, it’s going to be slightly smaller so that it nicely fits with the lid. If you went to exactly that point, then the box would be the same size as the lid, and then you’d kind of have to squish it together and it wouldn’t fit quite as nicely. So we’re going to go to the edge, and just a little over, and then crease. And ensure that you get nice creases. And here there’s many layers, and you have to make a very strong crease. Use your thumbnail or, if you have one, a bone folder. And then you repeat that on all four sides, and just try to always get about the same overlap so that you have a nice, symmetrical box. And here you can see I didn’t kind of soften the paper, it’s kind of started to wrinkle, so I just fixed that right now, and that’s okay. Just ensure that you do that when you see that it happens. And the last one. And then we also need some mountain folds right along here on all four corners. So let’s put those into place, aligning edge with edge, and then pushing up until that point. There we go. Now we can unfold two of these, and then we’re going to fold up along these edges here. Let’s make them just slightly bit stronger, ’cause we’ve got fewer layers here. So now they stand up; they’re perpendicular. Now we’re going to go along this crease line right here while pushing in along these mountain folds. So we’re going in…and in. And one overlaps the other, it doesn’t really matter which one. And then you fold it over along existing creases, and you push it inside. This is just the normal masu box. And then you take that corner, and you hide it inside that back of that hydrangea base again. So I actually like to push this a bit so that I get more space. Lift that flap up–can you see that?– and push it inside, and then make it neat. Like that. And same on the other side. We’re going in along that fold right there and bringing in the sides. And folding down, strengthening that crease, and then, again, hiding that corner inside the base of the hydrangea. And then the box is all done, so we can move on to the lid. You may want to strengthen some of these creases just to make them nice and crisp and get nice corners. And then move on. So for the lid, we’re again going to crease edge to edge, ensuring that we get nice precision in both directions. And this time we’re only going to mark the quarters and not the eighths. All the way around. And this time we’re going to align the edge with the quarter pinch marks. Now we’re again going to flip over the paper and hide that section of paper to align the central crease with that one. Again, ensuring that we get a nice, straight crease. And I prefer to do this, at least with these larger sheets, by lifting the paper and aligning folded edge with folded edge… …and then strengthening the crease. And you repeat that three more times. And once you’ve done that, we’re again going to add those diagonal creases As before, we’re going to take these two creases and align them with those two creases. And from the tip, one to the right and one to the left. Then align with the central creases, and two to the right and two to the left. And repeat with all four corners. Then, as before, I’m going to pinch that small square consisting of four grid squares to make the collapse of the hydrangea base a bit easier. And then flip over, and, as before, collapse. Making sure that these creases are mountain folds, by pushing from the back. And then always squeezing these together, having nice points pointing upwards here. And collapsing that base along existing creases. Next, we’re going to make these parts of the ribbon thinner, because, you can see, due to the different collapse this is much wider, and we need that space to fold the hydrangea. But first we’re going to take that edge and bring it to the crease line. So, folding that width in half, making a sharp crease. Unfold and repeat seven more times. And then we’re, again, going to fold in those corners to get the color change. So fold those ribbons aside, and then make creases connecting the points or, if you prefer, bringing the point to the center. Do this on all four corners. Then refold those small mountain folds so that you have the thinner width of the ribbon, and flip over. Just ensure that if some of these unfolded, you just refold them, because we’re going to fold through all the layers. And it’s slightly better if you actually have those ribbons folded, because the extra layers do need extra paper, and the creases are going to fall into slightly different places. Then, as before, we’re going to take the edge and fold it to the center. And there is even more layers here, so kind of softening the paper here by stroking over it is even more important than with the box. And make a straight crease. And, again, I’m doing the opposite corner first, softening the paper by going over it and having it kind of bend without too many wrinkles. And then folding over and making a nice strong crease. Especially in the center, you do need some pressure here to make a strong crease. And then, as before, I’m just going to connect these corners so that I get a nice, accurate square, softening the paper here, and adding the crease in just the right place. And same on the last corner. Then we’re going to fold back two of these corners, so this is on one tip and fold it behind. And on the opposite one too. We don’t do this on all four corners like with the box but just on two opposite ones. And then we can fold those, and then take these tips and insert them into these very soft pockets, but in the end, the pressure of the paper will be sufficient to hold this together. even if right now it might still be slightly unstable. Just ensure that this is relatively flat, because now we’re again going to finish with the masu box. So for this, we’re going to take the edge, and this time, bring it to the center. So right to that point. There’s a lot of layers here, so ensure that that paper folds nicely, and make strong creases, especially on the ribbon, really pushing the paper down. And repeat on the other side, just ensuring that the paper bends nicely rather than it crinkling. And, especially in the center, press down really hard. Unfold, and repeat with the other two sides. And, as before, we also need those mountain folds right here. So bring edge to edge, and crease only on those smaller squares on the corners. Now all the precreasing for the masu box is done. We’re going to unfold it, and now we can work on the hydrangea center. Now, you should already know how to fold the hydrangea, and I’m not going to go into detail on how to do this, but I am going to show you the basics of adding the first level, and then you just continue like with the normal hydrangea. So first, we need to make some space here. I’m going to unfold this just for a little while, and we’re just going to zoom in on here so that we can see it a bit better. So we’re first going to lift this layer up so that we can see a small diamond shape appearing. So we’re going right along where you can see those two creases meeting, and we’re going to fold the paper up, adding a small valley crease here. And then we’re going to fold this top layer back in and add a crease along there and hide the paper. And we’re going to repeat that on all four corners. So now we have the base prepped so that we can work in the normal hydrangea fashion. We have the back of the base, and we first have to sink all of the four corners. So I’m precreasing all four corners first. And the more precisely you work here, the more layers you can add. And it really depends on what finish you like. Then I’m lifting these two layers up and pulling the paper open so that I get a nice, neat square to sink that square after that. So you can see, that’s the nice, neat square, and we’re just going to fold it back. And that’s the open sink on one corner. You repeat that on all four. And once you’ve sunk all of the four corners, we’re then going to open this up, and we’re going to– well, there’s two techniques. The first one is, you take this layer right here– can you see that?– and you take it and you pull on it to invert that triangle. You can see there’s a triangle here, a small pyramid. And this is the pyramid brought to the top. Can you see? That is the same structure as that one, just inverted. And once you have that, you just push here… …to collapse it down And then you have a petal here. Now, the second way of bringing that pyramid up by inverting it is by pressing on exactly that point from the back. And that point is exactly right here. So you’d go there and push on it. And, depending on the size of the paper and what you prefer, you can either use your finger– you can see that point right there; I’m pressing right there right now to push it up. Or you could use something like a blunt tip, and then you can also press it flat. (I just saw I didn’t fold this to the back to hide that paper.) And then neaten it up. I think both techniques are fine; it depends a bit on the paper type and what what you like and also the size of the paper. And then you continue with the other four. Just always inverting the pyramid and collapsing it down. And then one layer is done. And now, importantly, we’re also going to add some creases that make the final collapse easier. You can see this point, and you’re going to bring it right to that point in a mountain fold. And make a strong crease and unfold. And repeat seven more times. There we go. And then you can proceed with the next level. Now if you need more details on how to do this collapse and this layering of the hydrangea, simply check my other video on the basic hydrangea which is a bit more detailed and that will hopefully help you out. I’m just going to do one extra layer here so that you can see the effect of that. And you add as many as *you* like. I think the more layers you add, the more stunning it is, but it needs to stay neat. So, I’d prefer having fewer, neater layers rather than having that one layer extra that just doesn’t look as nice anymore. For this size of paper, I think three layers are doable. And you can see that here: there’s one, two, three, and I’m working on the second right now. So now I’ve got the inverting of the triangles done for the next layer. And, again, add those mountain folds, and because this is going to be the last layer for me, I can keep those folded rather than unfolding them. It’s important to collapse these triangles– or to fold behind these triangles, I should say— from the top layer down to the lower layers. You can’t do it in the other order. So this is why you just precrease it and unfold all of it until you have all your layers added. And when you have those folded, you can then take the precreasing and collapse along those too, just folding it behind. And it’s much easier if you add the precreasing before you do the next layer, before you do the next collapse. So then, you have your hydrangea done in the center, and now you can collapse the masu box. So for this, again ensure that all of the ribbons are folded inside. We should actually do that from this side. And this time it’s going to lock much more nicely because of these outside petals. And they’re going to lock the ribbon into place. Then flip over, fold in two sides– two opposite sides– and then make it perpendicular. I think these were actually the ones where I folded the corners behind, so I’m refolding that. And make this one perpendicular. And then go along that crease and the mountain fold to bring inside the paper. Like that. And then fold along that existing crease line, and then you can tuck it inside those folded-behind corners. That’s one side and the other one. Just really tightly pushing those in and then, again, going underneath those folded-behind corners and pushing flat. And then, you just want to make sharp creases all around to give the box a nice finish. Perhaps again strengthening the creases on the ribbon, because there’s so many layers. And then the lid is done. And then you can take your box and put the lid on top and it’s all done. Because of the variation of the base, the box is a little higher, so it’s easy to open. And, because of that small gap we left, the box is just slightly smaller than the lid. Now, it needs a bit of experimenting to figure out how much overlap you really want; it depends on how tightly the box should fit. But I actually like it to be relatively tight so that when you hold on to the lid, the box doesn’t fall out. And now that you know how to fold this wonderful Hydrangea Ribbon Box by Dáša Ševerová, how about you try folding her Star Bowl or check out the other origami boxes and containers I’ve done tutorials for. I’ve also got a playlist of origami tessellations which you may enjoy. Subscribe to my channel so you don’t miss my next videos. And finally, do check out my website: happyfolding.com for more origami content. I hope to see you around, and happy folding!